Bonitaseventus

Arin Gilbert

Monday, July 31, 2006

I am broke!

If I were a Guatemalin, I probably write that I have as much money as my next door neighbor, but since I am from the states... I am BROKE!!!!! Yes, that is right... I have absolutly no money. Well, that is, except for the $100 or so American dollars in my pocket. What do I mean exactly... Well, Son and I spent the last hour looking for an ATM that I could withdraw money from. Every single one denied me my cash. I started to become circumspect. So, the two of us headed over to an internet cafe. I decided to login and check my account. The image that appeared was that of RED, and more RED. On the 25th and 26th mass withdrawls started being pulled from my account; and all from Guat. Anyway, I am now one of the locals. Considering I am in Gaut and the average pay of a Guat is about 100 or so dollars a month, if I budget right, I will be able to live as a local for at least one more month. Alright, enough of this blog writing, I need to call my BANK!

Saturday, July 29, 2006

Story, Part Two

Nestled into the back of the El Barrio bar, the two of us sat sipping drinks and exchanging stories. Foreign languages can really surprise you sometimes, I though to myself. Here I am, in Central America, never have I taken a formal Spanish class in my life, and I´m managing to hold quite a long set of conversations. How? I´m not really sure. But what I do know, is somehow we understand each other.

As the evening developed, and my inhibitions relaxed, our conversations moved from the simple ¨I live¨, ¨you live¨, and ¨what type of travel have you done¨ to the more complex and much more difficult ¨this is what I think of politics¨, ¨this is what I think of Michael Moore¨, and ¨this is what I think of the state of affairs in the world¨. The former conversations were not as smooth in my bad Spanish. But, once again, we somehow managed to generate good discussion, and in the process, understand each other.

We stayed discussing the simple -and the complex- for quite awhile; and it was enjoyable. Though, there did eventually reach a point where my mind conveyed the message that ¨I´ve had enough!¨. And, it was at this point that we headed to a club near the Panajachel dock.

Thursday, July 27, 2006

Photos of Lago Atilan and the bus trip

A field during our drive to Lago Atilan.


Bus depot prior to our arrival in Panajachal.


Some random girls that dropped by our hotel. Though the price is pretty cheap (35q pp... $5). We aren´t exactly roughing it in Lago Atilan... notice the view behind Son.

Photos of Antigua

This photo was taken during an immense rain storm that almost flooded our hotel.

Street shot of one of the many Volcanoes surrounding Antigua.

This was taken atop a place called Sky Bar.

Son looking in on a Salsa Class.

Sky Bar.

Photos of El Salvador

The following are photos of Juayua, El Salvador.

Wednesday, July 26, 2006

My Head Hurts and I am Tired

I´ve just returned from the second day of Spanish class. It went well, though my interest in the language started to wane after the second hour. Our class begins, what would normally be a reasonable hour of 9:00. Though, the town we currently reside comes alive in the evening.
Aware of the evening distractions, two nights ago, I positioned myself for sedateness, and attend an evening screening of Oliver Twist (directed by Roman Polanski). After the movie, I leaned over to ask my next seat neighbor what she thought of the film. ¨Habla ingleise¨, was how the conversation started and after about an hour of talking and then walking back to the town center ¨aqui, 9:00, mañana. The next evening -dreading the thought of having to stay up late and then get up early to attend Spanish class- I met my Italian friend. Her name is Barbara.

We initially headed to a place called Buddhas Cafe, where the atmosphere is almost as eccentric as the name. Strewn from ceiling to ceiling and wall to wall, are vibrant colored tapestries. The seating consists of Mafia style chairs surrounded by rectangled tables and soft cushy sofas. Unfortunately, our arrival was greeted by a sign that read ¨Cerrado¨, closed.

Our next option, though not as nice, was El Barrio. Son and I ended up at this joint the very first night we arrived to Lago Atilan (Another story that I will publish into the blog later). El Barrios was open, so we sat.

...The part I´ve neglected through the story thus far is that this woman speaks no English; solo Italiano y español...

Well, my time has just about run out. I will need to continue the rest of the story in another chapter of the blog. Until then...

Tuesday, July 25, 2006

The Forced Update

I really need to get the word ¨quince¨ down. I keep confusing it with the word cincuento or cincuento with quince. Honest mistake, right. They both have a 5 in the meaning... Anyway, about 20 minutes ago, I walked into this Internet cafe. I currently only have a 100q bill on me. Realizing that places don´t like, or don´t normally have change for such bills, I asked the Internet if they would have cambio. They asked how long I´d be using the internet. I responded with cinquento. The woman gave a little squint, and then finally said ¨OK¨.

Here´s the issue, I really meant 15 (Quince) but instead, I said 50 (cincuento)...

Anyway, I´ve now used about 30 minutes of time. I´m going to try and cash out. If she has a problem with the change, I´ll just have to come back to pay for the time.

Monday, July 24, 2006

An Entrance Like No Other

Through the vast and expansive fields; past farms peppered with corn; goats tied by their feet to retain them to a section of brush for clearing; and merchants spread throughout our drive selling anything from smoked corn - to custom made bracelets, Son and I made our way to Lago Atilan. The drive lead us through Guatemalas Highland area. Climbing high into the mountains, the drive was spent more in 2nd gear then ever I´ve driven. A ¨I think I can I think I can...¨ Mantra would be most appropriate to describe the cars occasional struggle to top the next hill.

As the hours drifted and our bottoms became sore, something appropriately described as ¨spectacular¨ appeared. The sight was that of Lago Atilan. Nestled between steep cliffs and high mountains is a place that has yet to be found by all. Known once, and in some parts still, is an area were hippies once called home. Lago Atilan is a massive lake, that is dotted by several towns known for their hospitality, inexpensive cost, and overall beauty.

We are currently in San Pedro de Laguna (I think that´s the city name). We will call this place home for the next week. We have found a wonderful hotel ($5 per person) that has a fabulous view of the Lake and a private Hammock outside our room door. The original Spanish plan has been slightly altered by prior events but Son and I found a woman who will teach us Spanish. We will start tomorrow. She seems quite professional and the price of $75, for 20 hours of private instruction cannot be beat.

Arin

Oh, I will try and post pictures within the next day.

Sunday, July 23, 2006

Amount of explosions while writing the last blog

I counted about 10.

Fanny Packer Ver. Backpacker

Last year, the stay in Antigua offered an experience of rawness. A feeling that you were unique amongst a foreign environment. Essentially, you were away from the ¨common¨ destination. I quite liked this. The surroundings were generally filled with like minded backpackers interested in fulfilling some experience. And, overall, the place acted as a launching point for some grand Central American trek. Unfortunately, the uniqueness, beauty and seclusion, has been taken over by an over saturation of Fanny packers. I would describe these travelers as the bus bumpers. Those people who don´t necessarily experience as much as see an experience. Although, I really have no grounds for complaint, it is an unfortunate to see Antigua swarmed with such masses.

Antigua, for the last two days, has been hosting a festival. The advent of which has inspired random cannon explosions, that dot the sky with bursts of smoke. The significance and timing of each explosion is completely random; and instills a sense of invasion, or enemy bombardment around town. While walking the deserted streets of Antigua, with my friend, late last night, a loud explosion was set off several blocks away. Being Antigua, and knowing of the false sense of security -I learned that several nights ago two girls where rapped by a tuk-tuk driver; several days ago, a burglar (at night) burglarized one of the shops in the Mercado and was shot violently; and that cops have a license to kill- the sound moved me to wonder why they had to shoot the cannons so late at night. Well, except for the occasional startling, as a whole the cannon fire has -oddly- added a colorfully transparent feel to the town.

Son and I have grown somewhat tired of the saturation around town, and in several hours will board a bus to Lago Atilan. The place is supposed to be quite nice. We are looking forward to a place were the local feel is not lost by the invasion of the Fanny Packer.

Arin

Oh, I received requests for photos. I do have many, but just haven't had the opportunity to upload them onto the blog. I will attempt some type of image upload within the next week.

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

El Perezoso Update

This is an E-mail I sent to several people (not sure why but this computer is really messing with words; you might find a bunch of typos in this update):

As I think you´re probably aware, my first couple days in CentralAmerica were spent in El Salvador. The country is very nice. On Sunday, I spent the night in the northern portion of the country, in atown called Achuapahn. When I arrived, I had no idea where I was going to stay and, the rains were falling heavily. Fortunately, I did receive a small window of time to walk around the town prior to the rain starting, once again.

Once I´d figured out what hotel I was going tostay at, the rain again came down, and this time even heavier then before and made getting to the hotel, difficult. At one point, I stood under a tin roof chatting with an El Salvadorian. I was probably under this roof, avoiding the rain for about 20 minutes, when finally a tuk-tuk drove by (small taxi).

The following days (Monday) trip to Guatemala City and then Antigua was smooth. I hopped a bus from the Center of Ahuachiapan (or howeverit´s spelled.) Took the bus to the border. Unboraded, changed $20with one of the many cambio guys walking around, and then sought outimmigration... To my surprise, it wasn´tnecessary to get a stamp on my passport. Apparently, until I learn atthe airport that this wasn´t correct :), people traveling from El Salvador have free passage to Guatemala.

The arrival into Guat City was filled with minor confusion. I opted to save cash (taxi would have cost $30 where as the bus was .80 cents), and ride a chicken bus to Antigua. Following the Lonely Planet (my travel guide book), I asked a taxi driver to take me to theBus Station at Zona 1. Turns out, the bus station for Antigua had moved. It is now located in Zona 3. Fortunately, I told the Taxidriver what bus I wanted and he checked with another driver beforeletting me off. I did finally find the right bus, and am now stayingin a dormitory style room with 1 other roommate, she is from Israel. Son, is supposed to arrive today.

Arin

Monday, July 17, 2006

The hidden truth about El Salvador

The place is great! Though there may not be as many destinations of interest, the country sure makes it up by the extraordinary hospitality. Surprisingly, not much is mentioned in most guide books about visiting El Salvador. And when it is, many times the information provided is almost like an after thought of ¨Oh Yeah, we need to add El Salvador¨. This lack of info, I´m sure, is one of the reasons El Salvadorians are so friendly- they´re not inundated with visitors.

This past weekend 3 of us traveled the Route De Flores; and stopping along several places along the way. We spent the night in a city named Juayua which unofficially or officially is known as the gourmet capitol of El Salvador. Every weekend, the city closes down several blocks and opens the place up to local chefs. Along with the food, you also have a big outdoor market, wonderful, animated live music, and a really neat colorful atmosphere.

While eating dinner our first night, we met a family visiting from El Salvadors capitol, San Salvador. The meeting quickly turned into a friendship, and the following day, they actually drove me to Achuhapan, and Rafael and Eliza back to San Salvador.

Prior to Leaving Juayau, the three us of tracked into Juayua´s falls. The hike was great, and the pools that greeted us at the end of the expedition where fantastic.



Arin Gilbert

Sunday, July 16, 2006

Where am I?...

The sweetest people just dropped me off in the middle of nowhere. Why? Because I asked them to, of course. I´m currently typing this from an Internet Cafe in Achuapan. The area is almost deserted and reminds me of an Alfred Hickok movie, when the streets have been flushed of any existence. While driving to the city, we were escorted by one of the heaviest rain storms I´ve every experienced. Though I would like to write more, the need to find my place of lodging, prior to the evening claws wrapping themselves around my vision, is strong. Off I go, into the rain consumed wonder.

Friday, July 14, 2006

Back in Central America

I´m back in Central America. I left Los Angeles late last nigh (Dave is doing much, much better)... Almost didn´t make the flight due to them exceeding their legal weight limit (people returning to El Salvador sure bring back a lot of stuff!). I´m currently staying at the Hotel La Posada Del Angel. I´ll be here for the evening and then off -I think- to Guatemala.

Day at a glace: I arrived around around 6:50am and hired a taxi to take me into the city- the inexpensive shuttle would have taken about two hours to arrive. I lost the directions to the hotel and the taxi driver had no idea of the place, so I gave him directions to a random hotel. Fortunately, the random hotel, Hotel Florida, had Internet access. After a bit of time explaining to Hotel Florida that I wasn´t interested in a room, I paid 1.50 for Internet access,located the address of the hotel, and was on my way - the person at the hotel turned out to be very sweet. Once I found the address, he offered to call a taxi for me, and told me to take a seat, relax and the enjoy the lobby while I waited for my ride.

Initial impressions of San Salvador:

- People are lovely and very helpful. Several minutes ago, a person from the hotel came by and asked if I´d like for him to call my friend so that she´d know I was awake - I´m staying in a friends room and earlier this morning, house keeping walked in while I was sleeping (I didn´t mind). She wasn´t aware that I´d already been in touch with my friend and went over to the front desk to tell them I might want to contact Eliza.

- During a couple hour walk around, it´s apparent that the city doesn´t have a vast back packing group- at least not in this area of the city. Some ways this is nice, but mostly something that is an unfortunate.

- Things are expensive. I walked into both a hardware and grocery store to price random items. And, everything was as expensive as the US, if not more. As an example, a yogurt was about .65 - .85 cents and a Central American brand beer was around $.85 - $1.20. At the Hardware store fans were around $30 and seeds about $1.50. Taxis aren´t any better. The 10 minute ride from Hotel Florida to Hotel La Posada Angel was $6.00.

All and all everything is great. I´ll be meeting up with my friend in a couple hours. She, her coworkers and I will be going out for dinner, and then probably dancing.

Monday, July 03, 2006

Life in perspective

Every once in a while outside events will inspire one to re-evaluate what's truly important. Mundane issues like "I missed my show!", "I received a parking ticket!", "I slept in!", "This traffic is horrible!", "I can't believe that my shirt is stained", "I received a flat tire!", "This day is too hot", "This day is too cold", "I can't find a parking spot!" and others begin appearing insignificant relative to a whole.

Sometimes this reflection is triggered by events that happened by those you don't know and other times by those who are close. In the past week, two of these have been triggered by those I know- one serious and one fatal.

Ben-
Two days ago I received a distressed call informing me that a family friend, who was living in New Mexico, was in a fatal car accident. I am unsure of the details, but our friend passed away. He was 24.

Ben and I first met while selling goods at the farmers markets. His family was known as the Goat people (sold goat cheese) and we were referred to as the people with the gourmet dips. A good friend, he and I shared the common interests of skiing and -when younger- video games.

As time went on, our friendship waned but we kept up with what each one was doing. In an odd way, I became a mentor of his by proxy. After I hired on at Los Alamos National Laboratory, he became inspired to learn the field of computers, and eventually gained employment at Sandia National Laboratory; as I attempted to shed my youth and grow, he followed suit.

Since I could remember, he always had the plan of stability- the desire of the house, the wife, and the kids; and, with fixed determination, he successfully pursued those ends. Through his frugality, and dedication, he was able to purchase a house at a rather early age. Through his persistence, and devotion, he managed to find a kind and loving wife. And, through the mutual love for one another, they had planned to have kids within a year or two.

His passing is unfortunate and untimely, but, though young, he managed to achieve much of what he wanted from his life.


My Brother-in-Law
While riding his motorcycle through a lightly trafficked stretch of Santa Monica, a car made a sudden turn, blocking Daves path. Dave, going about 30 MPH didn't have enough room to stop. So, with only seconds to spare, he evaluated his options. Either veer onto the other lane, and run head on into the approaching car or, drop the bike and use it as a form of protection while he skid into the car. He opted for the latter. And, though the decision may have been the better of the two, he was still injured.

At about 7:00pm Friday evening, he called to inform us that he'd been in an accident. At the time of his call, he believed he was OK. Though, for precautionary sake, the paramedics wanted to take him to the hospital. By about 7:30 he was feeling OK, and wanted to head home, but was having difficulties moving his legs. The hospital took him into the ER where they started running tests. About an hour or so later, his vitals began fluctuating, and he started going into a mild shock. The ER ran a sonogram across his lower back and discovered that an artery had been bleeding internally. Within minutes, he was taken into surgery to stop the bleeding. Two hours later, they'd determined that his artery had healed itself, and that their was no other internal bleeding.

Once they'd ensured the internal bleeding had ceased, he was given a Cat-Scan. With the information, they determined that his pelvis had been fractured in two different places. And, he was going to need a plate to refuse the pelvic bone.

Dave finally had surgery on Tuesday (4 days after the accident). Everything was successful, and he has regained control of his lower legs (prior to surgery, though he could wiggle his feet, he was unable to move his lower legs.) In a couple of days, we hope to have him back home.

Things like this make one really appreciate not just the years in our lives but also the months, and days. Petty issues that we sometimes obsess over immediately become transformed into "not really important". Life seems to play out like a complex play. One we can either appreciate, even in the moments of bad, or, dismiss all as an un-enjoyable escapade, that we are forced to sit back and watch. I've always liked perceiving the event as a wonderful show, one full of interesting, if not sometimes abstract, events. Ultimately, our comfort is determined more by the way we watch the show rather than what is being watched.

Sunday, July 02, 2006

Good Article from NY Times

nytimes.com

July 2, 2006
Celebrating July 2

10 Days That Changed History

IT'S a badly kept secret among scholars of American history that nothing much really happened on Thursday, July 4, 1776.

Although this date is emblazoned on the Declaration, the Colonies had actually voted for independence two days earlier; the document wasn't signed until a month later. When John Adams predicted that the "great anniversary festival" would be celebrated forever, from one end of the continent to the other, he was talking about July 2.

Indeed, the dates that truly made a difference aren't always the ones we know by heart; frequently, they've languished in dusty oblivion. The 10 days that follow — obscure as some are — changed American history. (In some cases, they are notable for what didn't happen rather than what did.)

This list is quirky rather than comprehensive, and readers may want to continue the parlor game on their own. But while historians may argue endlessly about causes and effects — many even question the idea that any single day can alter the course of human events — these examples show that destiny can turn on a slender pivot, and that history often occurs when nobody is watching.

Anyway, happy Second of July.

JUNE 8, 1610: A Lord's Landfall

Three years after its founding, the Virginia Colony was a failure. A few dozen starving settlers packed some meager possessions and sailed from Jamestown on June 7, headed back toward England. The next morning, to their surprise, they spotted a fleet coming toward them, carrying a new governor, Lord De La Warr, and a year's worth of supplies.

If not for his appearance, Virginia might have gone the way of so many lost colonies. What is now the Southeastern United States could well have ended up in the French or Dutch empires. Tobacco might never have become a cash crop, and the first African slaves would not have arrived in 1619.

OCT. 17, 1777: Victory Along the Hudson

If one date should truly get credit for securing America's independence, it is when the British general John Burgoyne surrendered at Saratoga.

The battle's significance was more diplomatic than military: shortly after news reached Paris, the French king decided to enter the war on the American side. "If the French alliance and funding hadn't come through at that moment, it's hard to say how much longer we could have held out," says Stacy Schiff, author of "A Great Improvisation: Franklin, France and the Birth of America." The American Revolution might have gone down in history as a brief provincial uprising, and the Declaration of Independence as a nice idea.

JUNE 20, 1790: Jefferson's Dinner Party

On this evening, Thomas Jefferson invited Alexander Hamilton and James Madison to dinner at his rented house on Maiden Lane in Lower Manhattan. In the course of the night, Jefferson recalled, they brokered one of the great political deals in American history. Under the terms of the arrangement, the national capital would be situated on the Potomac, and the federal government would agree to take on the enormous war debts of the 13 states.

Had that meal never taken place, New York might still be the nation's capital. But even more important, the primacy of the central government might never have been established, says Ron Chernow, the Hamilton biographer. "The assumption of state debts was the most powerful bonding mechanism of the new Union," he says. "Without it, we would have had a far more decentralized federal system."

Arin Gilbert

APRIL 19, 1802: Mosquitos Win the West

Events that change America don't always occur within our borders. Consider the spring of 1802. Napoleon had sent a formidable army under his brother-in-law, General Charles Leclerc, to quell the rebellion of former slaves in Haiti.

On April 19, Leclerc reported to Napoleon that the rainy season had arrived, and his troops were falling ill. By the end of the year, almost the whole French force, including Leclerc himself, were dead of mosquito-borne yellow fever.

When Napoleon realized his reconquest had failed, he abandoned hopes of a New World empire, and decided to sell the Louisiana Territory to the United States.

"Across a huge section of the American heartland, from New Orleans up through Montana, they ought to build statues to Toussaint L'Ouverture and the other heroes of the Haitian Revolution," says Ted Widmer, director of the John Carter Brown Library at Brown University.

JAN. 12, 1848: An Ill-Advised Speech

His timing couldn't have been worse: With the Mexican War almost won, a freshman congressman rose to deliver a blistering attack on President Polk and his "half-insane" aggressive militarism. Almost from the moment he sat down again, the political career of Representative Abraham Lincoln seemed doomed by the antiwar stand he had taken just when most Americans were preparing their victory celebrations.

Yet that speech saved Lincoln. "It cast him into the political wilderness," says Joshua Wolf Shenk, the author of "Lincoln's Melancholy." This insulated him during the politically treacherous years of the early 1850's — when Americans divided bitterly over slavery — and positioned him to emerge as a national leader on the eve of the Civil War. Lincoln's early faux pas also taught him to be a pragmatist, not just a moralist. "If he had been successful in the 1840's, the Lincoln of history — the Lincoln who saved the Union — would never have existed," Mr. Shenk says.

APRIL 16, 1902: The Movies

Motion pictures seemed destined to become a passing fad. Only a few years after Edison's first crude newsreels were screened — mostly in penny arcades, alongside carnival games and other cheap attractions, the novelty had worn off, and Americans were flocking back to live vaudeville.

Then, in spring 1902, Thomas L. Tally opened his Electric Theater in Los Angeles, a radical new venture devoted to movies and other high-tech devices of the era, like audio recordings.

"Tally was the first person to offer a modern multimedia entertainment experience to the American public," says the film historian Marc Wanamaker. Before long, his successful movie palace produced imitators nationally, which would become known as "nickelodeons." America's love affair with the moving image — from the silver screen to YouTube — would endure after all.

FEB. 15, 1933: The Wobbly Chair

It should have been an easy shot: five rounds at 25 feet. But the gunman, Giuseppe Zangara, an anarchist, lost his balance atop a wobbly chair, and instead of hitting President-elect Franklin D. Roosevelt, he fatally wounded the mayor of Chicago, who was shaking hands with F.D.R.

Had Roosevelt been assassinated, his conservative Texas running mate, John Nance Garner, would most likely have come to power. "The New Deal, the move toward internationalism — these would never have happened," says Alan Brinkley of Columbia University. "It would have changed the history of the world in the 20th century. I don't think the Kennedy assassination changed things as much as Roosevelt's would have."

MARCH 2, 1955: Almost a Heroine

When a brave young African-American woman was arrested for refusing to give up her seat on a Montgomery, Ala., bus, local and national civil rights leaders rallied to her cause. Claudette Colvin, 15, seemed poised to become an icon of the struggle against segregation. But then, shortly after her March 2 arrest, she became pregnant. The movement's leaders decided that an unwed teenage mother would not make a suitable symbol, so they pursued a legal case with another volunteer: Rosa Parks.

That switch, says the historian Douglas Brinkley, created a delay that allowed Martin Luther King Jr. to emerge as a leader. He most likely would not have led the bus boycott if it had occurred in the spring instead of the following winter. "He might have ended up as just another Montgomery preacher," Professor Brinkley says.

SEPT. 18, 1957: Revolt of the Nerds

Fed up with their boss, eight lab workers walked off the job on this day in Mountain View, Calif. Their employer, William Shockley, had decided not to continue research into silicon-based semiconductors; frustrated, they decided to undertake the work on their own. The researchers — who would become known as "the traitorous eight" — went on to invent the microprocessor (and to found Intel, among other companies). "Sept. 18 was the birth date of Silicon Valley, of the electronics industry and of the entire digital age," says Mr. Shockley's biographer, Joel Shurkin.

AUG. 20, 1998: Just Missed

With most Americans absorbed by the Monica Lewinsky affair, relatively few paid much attention when the United States fired some 60 cruise missiles at Qaeda training camps in Afghanistan. Most public debate centered on whether President Clinton had ordered the strike to deflect attention from his domestic troubles.

Although the details of that day remain in dispute, some accounts suggest that the attack may have missed killing Osama bin Laden by as little as an hour. How that would have changed America — and the world — may be revealed, in time, by the history that is still unfolding.

Adam Goodheart is director of the C.V. Starr Center for the Study of the American Experience at Washington College.